Gather 'Round the Stove
Gun Loading Tips
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A Longrifle on Horseback
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Antler Powder
Measure «
Antler Tip Priming Horn
Averting Air Pressure While
Loading «
Better Grip on Ramrod
«
Cap Holder On Strap
Fast Loading Tool
«
Filling Your Priming Horn «
Frizzen Boot
Homemade Casting Ladle
«
Homemade Capper «
Homemade Shotgun Speedloader
Ivy Leaves
« Loading
Block Variation «
Loading Lubed Bullets
«
Marking a Ramrod
One Horn
for Coarse & Priming Powder «
Powder Measuring Tube
«
Priming Powder
Recycled
Powder Charge Tubes «
Releasing Stuck Ramrod
«
Speed Loading Block
Shotgun Wad Punch
«
Shot Sticks
«
Versatile & Comfortable Ramrod
«
Wasp Nests as Wads
You can use two small horns to make a larger one
that will carry the 2Fg or 3Fg powder for your main charge and the priming powder for your
pan. The illustration shows how it works. Just follow the numbers.
1. Tresco 3-grain flintlock priming valve.
2. 1/4" solid wood disc (glued in place) to separate small and large ends.
3. Hollow wooden plug that joins the butt ends of the two horns.
4. Wooden spout plug (or charging valve).
--LaVern F. Peters, Hammonde, IN. J/A 90.
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This type of ladle is easily made
from inexpensive materials. You can make one to pour just the right amount of lead for one
bullet every time. You'll need one empty CO2 cylinder, a metal strip for half of the
handle, a metal strap, a piece of wood for the other half of the handle and two stove
bolts with nuts.
Cut a slot in the CO2 cylinder at the height to hold enough lead for
one ball plus a little extra. You can face the slot either way depending upon which hand
you pour with. Cut the top out of the cylinder for a pouring spout. Put it all together
and you're ready to run some balls.
--Robert Retzer, Beaver, PA. J/A 90.
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Shotgun wads are not an expensive
commodity to purchase, but it's easy to produce them at home with an instrument intended
for another purpose. A horn scoop or dehorning spoon, which removes horn buttons and scurs
from young calves and lambs, may be used to punch out overshot wads from 1/32" thick
non-corrugated cardboard (cereal boxes).
The horn scoop is a simple, hardened,
plated metal tube with a beveled edge, large palm ball handle and take-out hole on the
side. By rotating the circular scoop edge through the cardboard over a hard surface like
scrap wood, you cut out a uniform disc wad.
The horn scoop is available in three sizes: 3/4" (.70" OD.,
.625"ID), 7/8" (.875" OD, .75 ID) and 1" (1.0" OD, .875"ID).
You can purchase one at most farm and ranch supplies or mail order through Western
Instruments Co., 4950 York St., PO BOX 16428, Denver, CO 80216, or Ideal Instruments,
Inc., 607 N. Western Ave., Chicago, IL 60612. The 7/8" horn scoop cuts a wad that
fits tightly in CVA's 12 gauge open cylinder double barrel shotgun (.720"). The
3/4" and 1" horn scoops produce wads that fit 20 gauges (.615") and 8
gauges (.835"), respectively.
With the aid of a jig, judicious sharpening on a grinding wheel will
keep the bevel sharp at approximately 57 degrees. The horn scoop is not meant to be driven
through material with a mallet like a punch is. Constructing a wad punch to fit a specific
gauge is limited to finding the appropriate I.D. size tubing and finishing the cutting
edge by grinding and hardening.
--Curtis Dillon, Conroe, TX. J/A 90.
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It's easy to make, easy to use, and the only
material you need is a piece of leather 1/8" thick and 1-1/4" wide X 2-1/2"
long. Punch holes so that your caps fit tight. Use a razor or sharp knife to cut slots as
shown in the picture. Attach a short piece of string or leather shoelace to the top middle
hole and secure the other end to the trigger guard.
--William A. Miller,
Millersburg, OH. J/A 90.
I believe most
hunters are like me in that they want to have powder charges close at hand for fast
reloads. I've come up with a system that works well for me to accomplish this. Many
manufacturers of high speed, carbide burr bits ship their product in protective plastic
tubes with caps. These tubes are great for holding powder charges. I found that the
3/8" size fits the bore of a .50 caliber nicely, and they will hold up to 120 grains
of powder. After they're filled, I load them into an elastic butt stock cartridge carrier.
This puts the charges right on the stock in easy reach.
-John Keller,
Geneva, NY. N/D 90.
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This
loading block with attached ball started is made to be worn over your neck and ride down
by your side. The starter is made from a small file handle and cupped cleaning jag of
appropriate caliber size.
Drill a hole through the handles of both the starter and the block and
run a thong or cord through the holes. Make the thong long enough to go over your neck and
allow the block and starter to hang by your side, out of the way.
The thong will hold the handles together at the top while an eye hook
screwed into the block holds the bottom part.
--Lavern Peters, Hammond,
Indiana. M/A 90.
For the wads used in muzzleloading shotguns to work properly, they
should fit tightly. Unfortunately, the air pressure encountered when ramming wads home
fights you all the way. This pressure is sometimes great enough to blow the ramrod right
out of the barrel and out of your hand. If not dangerous, this at least makes loading kind
of slow. To allow the gas pressure to escape but still maintaing a tight
fit, poke two or three air
holes in the wads with a small pin. Poke them near the edge to allow for the tip of the
gun's ramrod. This should reduce the air pressure enough for you to load smoothly.
--Peter Stines, Anuhuac, TX S/O 90.
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Here's a quick, cheap way to make a powder measure from an elk or deer antler. First, cut the horn
to your desired length (fig 1). The longer you make it the better, because it's hard to add
a piece it it's too short. Carefully place the cut piece in boiling water. Check the
center periodically to see if it is workable with a small pen knife. The antler itself and
the altitude will determine the boiling time, but it really doesn't take long. Next take
your pen knife and carve or whittle the center to your satisfaction. If the horn gets
hard, put it back in the boiling water a little longer. You'll be surprised at how fast
and easy you can work the antler's center. After you carve out the center (fig 2), use an
adjustable powder measure to get the load needed. Then dig out your files and get
creative. Finally, sad and polish the measure. I drilled a hole for the leather tie and
scribed the load it will hold (fig 3). The horn powder measure is lighter and quieter than
brass, it allows you to use your imagination, and you get the satisfaction of making it
yourself.
--Terry Smalec, Rangely, CA. S/O 90.
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While
black
powder shotguns are faster to reload than rifles, they are still slow when the action is
hot. Instead of messing around with flasks and measures, try my method of homemade shotgun
speed loader.
Glue the closed ends of two 35mm film containers together with a good
water-and heat-resistant glue. (The containers are free for the asking from most every
film developer.) Dump premeasured shot in one end, cap it and repeat on the other end with
powder. You can put cards and wads in the shot end.
A dozen or so of these loaders ride well in my shooting bag while in
the field and are just the ticket for the trap field.
--Richard Emory,
Davenport, IA J/F 90.
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I don't like carrying a large shot bag when I go
hunting or for a walk in the woods carrying my Northstar Trade Gun. A heavy shot bag is
usually an unwelcome companion, as is a partially filled shotbag which may be a little
unwieldy to pour easily. A convenient method of carrying a small quantity of shot is to
make a shot stick. Cut a length of cane as large a diameter as you can find. A proper
piece of cane should have a closed section at each end, which strengthens the open end.
The length of cane should be shorter than your shooting bag is deep or
wide, so that it will be easy to carry. I added a shallow groove near the pouring end for
tying on a thong and added a pouring tip. The thong can be used to hang the stick from
your neck or from a bag strap or belt, to attach the plug or purely for decoration. I have
found that just tucking the shot stick in my belt is convenient at times. The thong can be
used to hang the stick from your neck or from a bag strap or belt, to attach the plug or
purely for decoration. I have found that just tucking the shot stick in my belt is
convenient at times. The thong also provides support for the neck end, which may split if
you use a tight fitting plug and if the open end is not cut near a segment of the cane.
Make a plug for the open end by trimming a piece of a tree branch or wooden dowel to the
proper size.
My shotstick holds eight loads of shot, which is adequate for a walk in
the woods and is quick and easy to use for reloading. If you need more shots, use a
larger cane or make additional shot sticks.
--Dan Clower, Templeton, CA
M/A 91.
To make this priming horn, obtain a 3" to 4" long antler
tip that is 1/2" to 3/4" in diameter. Begin be squaring off the base. Next cut
the tip off, leaving the end at least 3/8" in diameter. Drill a hole slightly smaller
than the brass priming valve. Hollow out the antler base. Glue a wood plug to the base of
the antler. File and sand to shape. Apply linseed oil as desired. Glue and tap the priming
valve into place. Now you have a very durable and unique priming horn.
-Bill Woodworth, Kennesaw, GA M/A 91.
Drill the
holes for the balls slightly undersized and ream to fit with dowel wrapped in sandpaper.
Use a block that is large enough to allow room to drill holes that are deep enough for the
proper powder charge.
My favorite game is squirrel hunting with my .32 caliber, Southern
mountain rifle, and using this here "speed loading block" I can be ready fer the
second shot prit-near as quick as the pilgrim wit the new-fangaled repeter!
-Richard
McKee, Ironton, OH M/A 91.
This is an idea from an original bag
circa 1841-50's.
-Mike Harmon, Ankeny, IA M/J 91.
I
have found this boot to be useful in keeping the frizzen dry and clean and also it works
as a safety, as the flint will not cast a spark while the boot is in place over the
frizzen. Still treat your firelock with respect even though boot is in place.
Trace around your frizzen onto this cow, elk or deer hide. It is easier
if you remove the frizzen from the gun. Trace so the line from your pen is about
3/16" to 1/4" from the edge of the frizzen. Once you have traced the sides A and
B, cut them out and punch holes with an awl. Punch the holes in the leather so that when
stitched, the boot will fit tight to the frizzen. (Tight is right.)
-Donn
Wagner, Washingtonville, OH M/J 91.
Take a piece of
antler and on one end drill holes for any desired ball caliber, leaving room for the patch
around the ball. Then take the other end of the antler and drill a hole into it for
pre-measured powder load. Be sure to leave room for the cork in the end. This is a handy
accoutrement for the black powder hunter. It fits well in a possibles bag, or you can hang
it around your neck.
--Scott McMahon, J/F 92.
I know you've seen hundreds of ideas for quick shotgun loads.
But I feel this system has some advantages over all the others I've tried. I use those
small pill bottles with snap-on lids. (Your local pharmacy will probably sell you some
cheap.) I get the size that fits nicely in the shell loops of my hunting vest or coat just
like a 12 gauge shot shell.
Next heat a needle and melt a small hole in the thumb tab of the lid.
Then thread some #20 monofilament fishing line through the hole and tie a tight knot close
to the end so it won't slip back through the hole. Next, tape the other filament end to
the bottle with masking tape, which also makes a nice place to write what size load or
shot charge is in the bottle and the powder pours right under the card, leaving the card
on top of your barrel. And it works the same with the over-shot card. The cushion wads I
keep in a coat pocket.
What I like best about this system is that when I'm out hunting and a
rabbit goes streaking by me, and I zig when I should have zagged (that means I missed with
both barrels), I can keep my eye on where that varmint went while reloading. I just reach
in my shell pocket, grab a powder load and flick off the lid with my thumb (no need to
worry where the lid goes because it is taped to the bottle). Next I dump the powder down,
position the over powder card and shove her home, stuff the empty in my pocket and at the
same time grab a cushion wad, ram that down and repeat the same with the shot charge. With
some practice you can do this all by feel and not have to take your eyes off that sneaky
little varmint under that bush!
Now I know it ain't authentic looking, but I'm just one of those
"yahoos" that's into muzzleloading for the hunting and shooting fun of it!
-Bruce Schomaker, M/A 92.
I have often had difficulty
centering a patched ball in a loading block over the muzzle while loading, not to mention
holding the rifle, loading block and short starter all in alignment while loading during a
wood's walk.
To make it just a little easier, I got the idea of having the patched
ball protrude slightly from the loading block to make it easier to center over the muzzle.
Question was, how to make each patch ball protrude an equal amount out of the loading
block? I came up with the idea shown in the drawing.
Using two pieces of 1/8-inch plywood (left over from a model boat kit),
I placed one on either side of the loading block to raise it 1/8 inch off the surface of
the work bench. The loading block is then loaded in the usual manner. The patched balls
protrude a uniform 1/8 inch out of the loading block, making it easier to center them over
the muzzle while loading.
--Geoffrey W. Kiesinger, M/A 91.
Having trouble filling your priming horn? Try
using one of these ready-made, small tip funnels. The next time you or a family
member visit the doctor, have them mooch one of the
disposable tips off of the otoscope, the
device used to look inside the ear. Get one of the smaller sizes used for a
child's ear, and they fit nicely inside the small hole in the spring-loaded
priming valve used in a lot of priming horns. Unscrew the plunger first, of
course. It will also work if you just have a horn with a hole and plug.
--Richard K. Miller, Cranberry, PA J/A 04.
Lubed bullets stick to your
fingers in hot weather and you cannot use a loading block with them. I found a
simple way to keep my lubed bullets away from my fingers. For a .50 rifle you
only need some 12 mm plastic tubing and a 12 mm wooden dowel. (I used 12mm
tubing but 1/2 inch will probably work equally well.) Cut two inches of tubing
and four inches of the dowel. Put the lubed bullet on a flat surface and press
the plastic tube over it. I always put a ball of cotton over the bullet to
protect it as the dowel can leave marks. To load, simply put the base of the
bullet over the muzzle and press.
--Martin Godio,
Bahía Blanca, Argentina S/O 02.
BETTER GRIP ON RAMROD
I am sending a little wrinkle
that I came up with that helps me a great deal. I am 82 years old, and when my
hands are cold and stiff, I have a hard time gripping the ramrod to reload when
on the deer stand. I took a checkering file for steel and cut rings around the
brass tip extending about 3/8-inch back. This helped me get a better grip on the
rod.
--Herman C.
Braun, Cincinnati, OH J/A 02.
POWDER MEASURING TUBE
I’m sending along a sketch
depicting another powder measure idea. As we all know, loading your black powder
directly from a horn or flask is not permitted, so an additional step is needed
before pouring the powder down the barrel.
In some cases this can be
simplified by sliding a closed-end powder tube over the brass spout of the
powder container. (The powder tube can easily be made from cartridge cases in
any length desired). A friction fit over the flask or horn spout will allow the
powder to flow directly into the tube, which can be removed and poured directly
into the barrel, eliminating the need to pour the powder into another measure
and then into the barrel. A lanyard attachment can easily be soldered to the
tube end to prevent loss.
--Don Bills, Stuart, FL M/J
02.
RELEASING STUCK RAMROD
The tip concerns pulling a stuck
ramrod without damage to the rod. Take 28 inches of light cord or a leather
thong and tie the two ends together as shown. Starting at the firearm’s muzzle,
hold a small loop against the ramrod and take five tight wraps, with the cord
doubled, around the ramrod.
Push the loose end of the cord
through the small loop near the muzzle. Pull the knot up tight and pull the
loose end of the cord in the direction of extraction.
You may put a stick in the loop
at the loose end or hook it over a tree limb for leverage. This cord can be
easily stored in pocket or pouch. Gripping just the knot, it can be slide up or
down the ramrod. Pull the loose end and it tightens.
--Gary
K. Hodgson, Lake Placid, NY M/J 02.
PRIMING POWDER
I find buying a whole pound of
FFFFg powder a little intimidating when I realize that I only use a small
dribble for each priming of my flintlock. A pound can last for years. I
discovered this solution quite by accident. Pour a small amount of FFg or FFFg
powder in a container. (I use a plastic film canister.) Add a round ball, any
caliber will do, and let the ball roll around for a while. The ball will gently
break the powder down to a fine consistency that is just right for priming a
flintlock.
--Bob Uptagrafft, Clarkston, WA
M/A 00.
VERSATILE & COMFORTABLE RAMROD
Your ramrod will be more versatile and comfortable to use if both ends are
equipped with “smart tips.” The tip carried within the stock should be the one
used to seat the ball (no reversing ends of the ramrod which might hang up on
foliage in the field or hit someone in the face at a crowded loading table). It
should be concave to fit the face of the ball. The tip carried under the muzzle
should have a little domed screw‑in crown to make it easier on your hand (most
commercial tips are cupped with sharp edges). It can be easily removed
and replaced with the cleaning jag when desired. Also, a couple of little
concentric rings filed or turned on the tip make it easier to grasp when fingers
are cold‑numbed and are decorative as well. Of course, both tips should be glued
and pinned to the rod.
--Fred
Stutzenberger, Clemson, SC J/F 00.
A
LONGRIFLE ON HORSEBACK
If you get
a’horseback much with your longrifle and carry it in this fashion, it’s a good
idea to check your load with your ramrod to see if it’s moved down the barrel.
There are those who might argue packing the rifle loaded at all, but it was a
common practice in the old days, and several writers, including Marcy, mention
shifting loads as a problem. Obviously, if the barrel is stuffed with powder,
patch and ball, the lock should not be primed in any way.
--Ron Kil, Santa Fe, NM J/A 99.
MARKING A RAMROD
In the May/June 1998 issue, Ronald Kil advises readers to carve a notch on their
ramrod at the point that indicates a charge in the barrel. I don’t flip my
ramrod end-for-end to seat a ball, so that notch would be near the threaded
brass ramrod tip. A carved notch weakens a ramrod and makes it susceptible to
breaking at that point—especially while loading and cleaning in sub-freezing
weather when everything is just a little more brittle than usual and when you’re
fumbling with cold or mittened hands. I feel it’s far better to mark your ramrod
by simply inserting it into a loaded barrel and spinning it against a soft
pencil point held at muzzle level. As part of the clean-up process after a day
of shooting, I wipe my ramrod clean and apply a little boiled linseed oil, and
the pencil mark I started with several years ago is clearly visible. A pencil
mark can be renewed if it dulls through use. It can also be removed with steel
wool and relocated to accommodate a different powder charge. Best of all, a
pencil mark doesn’t compromise the strength of a wooden ramrod.
--Eric
A. Bye, Chester, VT S/O 98.
IVY LEAVES
Long ago and far away in England, I was
voicing my concern to an old gunsmith friend regarding smoldering wadding from
my fowler in dry times.
“Ivy leaves,” old Mr. Gretton said.
“What?”
“Ivy leaves,” he said again. “They make
real good wads. Just roll ‘em up in a ball, two or three, whatever you need.
Roll ‘em up and ram ‘em down like normal. Your gun’ll shoot the same, and they
won’t catch fire.”
I tried it, and they work really well.
In all the old guns that I have used them in, I never could see any practical
difference in pattern or penetration.
If you don’t have ivy leaves, I know
Virginia creepers work, or any other tough but supple leaves. The only drawback
is that if you ever leave a gun loaded overnight, your powder may get a little
damp from the sap!
--Richard Hare, Alberta,
Canada S/O 98.
WASP NESTS AS WADS
Goin’ back a ways, my folks was poor or
“frugal,” whichever handle suits. I can remember my grandpap used black powder
guns. He always used “yellow jacket” (paper wasp) nests for wads over powder and
shot, and over powder and ball in muskets. ‘Course he used pieces of the nest
without the occupants or larvae in residence.
I use and have used, for years, the same
material in my shotguns and muskets and it works fine, or to be politically
correct, “It shines.” It’s a lot more convenient “out of the bag” than them
modern, new-fangled cut wads, ‘specially with cold fingers. I’ve also used it
over powder in my Colts and over powder blanks in my cannon. The material is
waterproof, and there’s just enough “wasp spit” in it to make it stick and
compress beautifully. You smooth bore shooters ought to give ‘er a try.
The nest material (outer layers only) is
usually five or six layers thick. I carry a football-size nest in one
compartment of my two-compartment bag (8” X 10”). I tear a piece about 3/4 of
the size of a dollar bill, stuff it in the barrel over the powder and ram it
down firmly on the powder; same for the shot. It is a little like Grandma’s
recipes—you know, a “pinch of salt” and a “handful of flour.” To use in the
Colts, you will need to learn by experience, depending on the caliber. The point
is the material is free and reasonably available and would be in keeping with
what one old-timer used. And it sure looks “primitive.”
There is a word of caution however! You
should harvest the nest after the last hard frost in the fall and only use the
outer layers. Don’t take the nests into the living room or shop to show Ma and
the young-uns how purty the thing is hanging on a limb. Warming them up is jest
liable to have your habitat become overcrowded with lots of angry little black
and yellow unwanted guests. Remember these little critters are “repeaters,” and
they can sting ya about three times before you swat ‘em.
Thanks for your time, and best wishes on
your foraging for wasp nests.
--R. “Red Cheeks” Oshier,
Spencer, NY M/J 97.
MUZZLELOADER is not responsible for any accidents of any
kind that may occur from the use of published loading data or from
recommendations by it writers. The opinions expressed herein are those of the authors and
do not necessarily reflect the policy of MUZZLELOADER or Scurlock
Publishing Co., Inc. These hints are from the back issues of
MUZZLELOADER.
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'Round the Stove
© 2011 Scurlock Publishing Co., Inc.
Texarkana, Texas, USA. All rights reserved.
HOMEMADE CASTING LADLE
SHOTGUN WAD PUNCH
HOMEMADE CAPPER
RECYCLED POWDER CHARGE TUBES
LOADING BLOCK VARIATION
ANTLER POWDER MEASURE
SHOT STICKS
ANTLER
TIP PRIMING HORN
CAP HOLDER ON STRAP
FRIZZEN BOOT
FAST LOADING TOOL
QUICKER
LOADS FOR SHOTGUNNERS
CENTERING A PATCHED BALL